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ISLANDS TRAVEL PROPOSALName: Virginia Darney
Destination: Huahine, Society Islands (French Polynesia)
Why have you selected this island? My two primary criteria for island
study are French-speaking and warm weather. My friend Lydia was born
in Tahiti, and her mother lives on Raiatea, so I became interested in
the Society Islands. For a variety of reasons, Raiatea seemed not to
be ideal, but Sally and I were still determined to stay in French Polynesia.
We’ll be on Huahine, recommended by Lydia for the beaches, with
a bit of time in Tahiti, and Raiatea to meet Lydia’s family (mother,
brother [and sister in law], sister). Huahine also seems manageable
for the number of visitors we’ll be entertaining.
Projected Departure and Return Dates February 28 to April 18.
Language: French and Tahitian. I have studied French for several years,
and can manage traveling easily. I’d like to be able to actually
have a substantive conversation in French.
Health Issues: No Malaria. No Yellow Fever. Dengue Fever and Filariasis
present--from mosquito bites. Required immunizations: Hepatitis A, Rabies,
Typhoid.
What is your passport expiration date? August 18, 2006. Passport needs
to be valid for six months beyond the duration of the stay.
What are the visa requirements? Visas not required for up to one month.
I’ll apply at the French Consulate in San Francisco.
Travel Advisory Details
a. summarize the State Department’s advice for travelers to your
island. Low crime rate—mostly petty crime (pickpockets, purse snatching.)
b. Summarize current political and social conditions of your island.
Pays d’outré mer [POM]—French political system, education,
courts. French took over the islands in 1842—fierce resistance
from Raiatea. final local rebellion against the French in 1897. increased
French support in the mid 1960s, with nearby nuclear testing, filming
of Brando’s Mutiny on the Bounty 1977 French Polynesia granted
more autonomy in governance, budget, etc.
Basic overview of Island:
a. Population 5411[Lonely Planet, May 2000]
b. Size 75 square miles, 5 reef passes
c. longitude and latitude 8S, 150W
d. religion: Originally: polytheistic. Main gods: Tane, Tu, Oro, Hiro,
and secondary gods. Now, mix of Protestant Evangelical Church of Polynesia;
also Mormons (and an offshoot), Seventh-Day Adventists, Jehovah’s
Witnesses, Jews. Cemeteries are rare because they bury the dead in front
of their houses. Great singing. Tahitian language services. Some remains
of traditional religion—leaving a light on overnight, respect for
tapu sites, use of tahua, faith healer.
e. agriculture/industry. Black Pearl, vanilla production. Monoi, processed
cocoanut oil. Copra. Coffee, fruit, fish, shrimp, oysters. Tahiti depends
on import tariffs, so encourages imports at the cost of exports—huge
trade imbalance made up by France every year.
f. climate, Feb-April. 32C, 100-200 mm rainfall/month. Trade winds from
NE to SE at 40-60 km/hr in all seasons. Pleasant morning breeze, hupe
on the high islands. Cyclone risk.
g. Local Cultural Activities. Fare Pote’e museum and interpretive
center.
h. Monuments Matairea Hill contains the remains of a settlement from
1450 bce. Matairea-Rahi was the most important temple before the building
of Taputapuatea on Raiatea. Stones from matairea-rahi were used in the
building of the new temple.
i. Internet access—Ao Api-New World, above Snack Shop Salad in
downtown Fare. 30CFP/min.
j. Cost of living estimation [per day] It’s expensive because of
high tariffs,[except sugar, rice, flour], transportation costs, profits.
Housing is very expensive, and we’ll try to keep costs down by
doing our own cooking. There’s an ATM at Banque Socredo, and Banque
de Tahiti.
Preliminary ideas for individual study and research. After Heather’s
Madagascar lecture, I am curious about vanilla production in Tahiti.
Vanilla was introduced from Mexico, and now is an export crop. The flowers
must be pollinated (“married”) by hand. In 2002, Tahiti exported
47 tons of green and dried vanilla, with a value of $1.6. Pape’ete
hosted a conference for growers in February, 2003.[NOTE As you'll
see when you read the prospectus itself, my research project has changed
dramatically.]
I also want to spend time reflecting and observing, and less in my head.
I will commit to daily journals and sketch journals, and time everyday
alone.
What preparation does your project and trip require before your departure?
I need to work more on my French. I need to research more on vanilla
production. When was it introduced? By whom? Is it consumed on the islands?
What is vanilla’s role in the island economy?
What kinds of institutions or people do you need to contact before your
departure? Not sure. I need to see about the visa, and immunizations.
Any other questions or concerns: How will I decide which books to take?
How can I have enough? Will I have enough time alone on the island?
What foodstuffs should we take? Will Craig’s health be ok?
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