Irish Spring
Journal Entry: Week 1
15April2001
Week One - 08April-14April 2001
Dé Domhnaigh 8April
Arrived in Donegal town to find that there was no sunday service to the Glen,
after a four hour bus ride from Belfast. A particularly disturbing town that one,
felt like a war zone, police stations with ten foot concrete walls topped by razor
wire, floodlights and surveillance cameras on every corner focused on doors, which
explicitly state no parking or deliveries at any time. The look in peoples eyes
as well, darting here and there as if on the lookout for the next sectarian attack
- unnerving.
Couldn't get a bus until around 2100, so i queried a taxi driver if he could take
me, and how much would it cost…£30, guess it is my task to help out the economy
when tourism is on the wain. Had a chat with him, answering the obligatory question,
which seemed to be on everyone's tongue as soon as i mentioned i was studying
Gaelic, "why are you studying Gaelic, it's a dead language." So many answers for
that one, but my rote response is the one dealing with animism, like a good Pagan.
There was a Gaelic football game on the radio, seems Donegal was holding their
own against a title contending Kerry team. Go home team.
After we passed Carrick, the tallest sea cliff in Europe stood in front of us
and it was just around that where Glencolumbkille lie. Unfortunately, like the
Archaeology field trip, because of hoof-n-mouth it was closed. Around the bend
and their it was, home for the next five weeks; it was going to be so nice to
drop my bags for a while. It was far more beautiful than i had expected. The high
hills surrounding the valley, and the beach with the surf crashing on the rocks
sending spray high in the air. Impressive indeed.
Liam was the first of my fellow students i greeted and was greeted by when i arrived;
told him i managed to get to Rosslyn chapel and that i had cut a yew wand near
the castle. Dropped my bags and had lunch while i awaited Seán, and Patrick. Shortly
they arrived and introduced me to Liam Cunningham, the director of Oideas Geal,
who would take me to my cabin. Since i was the first to arrive i got the single
room with a double bed. Met my landlady Kat, who lived in the big yellow house
just in front of our cabin. Beautiful cottage, not anything like i expected, like
visiting my grandmother and staying in her extra cabin…as if.
Unpacked my bags and put my clothes away in the closets and drawers. Set up an
altar just beneath a statue of Mary set in a glass frame. Little Mary's all around
the house. The view out my window took in the lower part of the valley and the
rocks at the head of the beach's inlet. Since i hadn't been able to take a shower
at the hostel i took a nice long hot one…another surprise. Then i layed down and
awaited my roomies arrival. Supposedly i needn't have taken the cab, for a vus
was coming in at 1800 or so. Oh well, it allowed me to get the best room and not
have to be inundated with classmates so early on.
After the lot of them arrived (Jacqui, Kat and Donal), we went down Oideas Geal
for an introductory meeting with Seán and Patrick where we were introduced to
our Gaelic instructor Sorcha…(oh my). Then it was on to Biddy's sans Kat to get
a pint. It was a little overwhelming at first, what with it being packed and us
screaming bethos. Megan challenged me to meet and talk to at least three
locals…because Donal and i were sort of trapped in the corner and not mixing.
I had already met Cockie and Rocky, two very large men whom i had to squeeze betwixt
in order to reach the bar. I did shortly thereafter go and sit net to Evelyn the
bartender and chat with her and her friend Máired, as well as Alex, who was intent
on making origami frogs and cranes (kaere and tsuru); i was introduced
to Paul, Sophie, Jonathon and Tony, but not Deirdre. At one point Trina finally
arrived and whisked Meagan away to their cottage, Megan returned but Trina did
not. Dé Luain 9April
It was good to get back to class, coffee and cookies and an ordered progression
to the day instead of the constant chaos of where to go, what to do, and how to
get from here to there. First up was an intensive week of Gaelic instruction.
Having studied with Seán the Ulster dialect, we were now working with Sorcha who
speaks the Connacht dialect. Luckily we were starting pretty much from scratch,
ignoring much of what we were supposed to have learned in Olympia. Before class
i went down to the PO to get some stamps and send out a mass of postcards. I spoke
Gaelic in the PO and was glad to hear it spoken back. Unfortunately, i was not
able to understand when told how much it was in Gaelic. None the less, i was encouraged
and told that by the end of the week i would have a better grasp.
Sorcha is a very relaxed instructor, ready to answer the infinite questions we
have for her. It doesn't help that she is very attractive and consequently you
just want to sit and chat with her for hours on end. One detects the difference
in the two dialects, where have been taught to say mhaith as 'why', in her dialect
it is pronounced 'va'. I wonder what Charlie would say about that; next chance
i get i will ask him about it. Our schedule is sweet, the second Gaelic group
doesn't have to be in class until 1115 and then we get this long lunch until 1530.
We are supposed to be studying after lunch.
Liam gave a lecture, the first in the Gaeltacht series, which helped a lot of
people take what Fr. McDyer was about and not lose it in stone the messenger for
the message. I was most interested in what he said about his own work at promoting
the use of Gaelic. Particularly his intention to get a Gaelic magazine up on the
web, i may even ask him if he needs any help with the gruntwork of production.
Although he is still in the planning phase, working to get an ISDN line into the
Glen in order to make it happen. His explanation of the economic underpinnings
of McDyer's work was like so many other calls to arms in this age of rapine and
blunder.
Went to Roraty's, the other pub. Our class seems to be split along pub lines.
What felt odd about Roraty's was that the yanks were all facing the fire with
their backs to the locals lurking about the bar. Went there with Jacqui and Megan
to hear music and the band in question was our fellow classmates. Asked Kinson
and Cora to play 'Redemption Song', which they did, but sped up. Kinson sang a
great blues tune, called 'Need some smoke', which was just the shit. Went down
after that to Biddy's just in time to be whisked out by Evelyn, who looked beat.
Dé Múirt 10April
Went to the grocery to get some orange juice, Jacqui and i managed to get Leonard,
the shopkeeper, to speak Gaelic. Evidently this is something that just hasn't
happened much, as Liam told us we should interact with the community and one in
particular he mentioned was Leonard, and to ask why he didn't use Gaelic in his
shop. It didn't seem that big a deal, and he didn't even ask the obligatory "why
are you…" I gathered that if we engaged him in Gaelic, he would respect that and
answer in Gaelic. But then i am just the tourist student and he enjoys the extra
pounds in his till. Forces impinging in an opposite direction, until Winter rolls
around and there are no more students about. Had dinner with Eirin and co., talked
a long while with Máire (Chrissy).
Today was my first Bodhron class with Paddy mór after Gaelic and dinner.
According to Liam, at the feis there will be a Bodhron playing contest,
with one of the drums we are borrowing being the prize. I like my Bodhron at home
best, out of all that i have seen. I was getting the hang of it until the end
when i was getting fatigued and consequently was a little off tempo. I am happy
that i will now be able to play the drum long dormant in my room. It is good to
have music on me, and one thing that i am interested in pursuing is this thing
Paddy did called "lilting", much like children do when they are making up songs;
especially since i can't whistle.
At Biddy's i talked with Liam Cunningham about Leonard, he was incredulous to
the whole thing. He introduced me to Tony, our local Archaeology teacher, although
he won't be accompanying us to Tory Island next week. I will get to meet Paddy
O'Donavon. Got to talk to Danielle, Megan, and Eamon for a while as well. Met
Barbara who is both the playwright and our Poetry instructor., she drinks Whiskey,
warm with cloves. Dé Céadanon 11April
Today i ordered my lunch in Gaelic, sort of. Had to change around my Gaelic times
and forego the trip to Killybegs so i could do the afternoon Poetry session with
Barbara, Matt, Gleana, Medb, Dunstan, Emily, Eamon, and Stacey. Mine was one the
last poems to be critiqued. Barbara had never heard of the painting of Olympia,
so i shared the story of its reference. There were only two lines she took issue
with, the first was relative to the intrusion of the self into the lines. Although
others found the instance to be pointed in other directions and even approved
of the intrusion. The other referred to the heaping of ignominy on those derisive
of her images arresting gaze. They should instead be relegated to silence.
Later we were all requested to attend the play production of 'Country Boy', put
on by the local Drama group. The play was beyond any expectations, very professional
and well acted, i believe, or so my roomies tell me, our hosts played the older
leads. The content of the play was both painful, because of its brutally honest
portrayal of Americans come back to Ireland, and wonderful, due to its "happy
ending". The youngest son chooses to stay, marry his girl, and take care of the
folks, not to mention avoiding the horrific depiction of life in the city awaiting
him if he chose to emigrate. Then there was the begrudging acceptance of the father
for his son and his ascension to the role of partriarch. Two of my favorite lines
in the play were, "to send the last rose of summer,"which became a central theme
when reintroduced as a song, and "a man should get blind drunk once in a while
to see things right."
I walked Emily and Jayne home afterwards and stopped by the teach mór to chat
with them and use the leithras. Dunstan, Sorcha (the Gaelic instructor),
and Matt were there, or came in shortly and we all talked about Gaelic, glasses,
and the trials of losing ones passport. Dunstan really liked my poem, i felt likewise
towards his. Sorcha seems so approachable and welcoming with her knowledge of
Gaelic and her interest in us as people. Deardaoin 12April After Gaelic class
instead of lunch, I wandered the beach with Emily and Jayne, talking about altars,
shells, and the sand sculpture of a mermaid Jayne made. We wanted to cross the
stream and clamber up the rocks, but the flow was too swift, and the sand too
quick to seize the shoe. As i informed Sorcha the evening before, she lost some
of the class with today's introduction of gender and tense. Grammar is hard. Luckily
the day before i had purchased along with my Poetry text by O'Searcaich and two
Kíla disks (their first and most recent) a laminated sheet with much of the grammar
info on it. Didn't help much though when the question came my way concerning not
only tense but non-first person. Yikes!
Seminar was particularly good, what with our discussion of self-criticism and
the nature of Ethnography. I particularly liked Sorcha's questioning of the invasiveness
and presumption inherent in Anthropology. Barbara made her casting decisions,
and needless some of our classmates are not happy about it. My comment was that
i think there is a bit of grandstanding going on, as i myself chose not to read
for the parts and allow others with less experience or opportunity to be on stage
and enjoy the limelight. Ah Drama! I discussed with Barbara, Pam and Jolene details
about costuming and set design. Strange it is how she immediately turned to me
for my opinion, while not knowing of my background in Drama.
Noah began his singing and encouraged us to contribute "aber é." I sang
Poi dog Pondering's 'Praise the Lord', unfortunately i think it might have offended
one older man. Barbara apologized for chatting while i sang. I didn't mind so
much as her friend came over and dropped her elbow on to my thigh, barely asking
if i minded (which i didn't). Before i had the cajonés to sing, i quoted
my poem 'The Other Tree'. Later, as we wandered home i sang 'Connla', which Sorcha
found to be particularly interesting. She clapped and hooted at the end of each
Gaelic chorus, and asked for the name at the end. Dé hAoine 13April
Took the Gaelic test and packed to go to Sligo. The bus ride was uneventful, although
i did get to chat a little with Máire again, as she sat behind me. Had dinner
with Eamon, Stacey, Pam (Jessie and Craig) and Jolene (Sage). Originally we were
going to eat at this really nasty greasy spoon, but we just couldn't bring ourselves
to do it. As it was Good Friday, everything was closed, or just about. The place
we did eat at only had a cook and a waiter, so service was on Irish time. Like
we had anything else to do since everything was closed down tight…no beer, no
liquor; strange wine is not considered either and was therefore available…must
be like the fish and lent, the wine growers must have had an in with the church
or a disciple.
Went back to the hostel and hung out in the room with Kai, Máire, and Pam. I visited
the room of much estrogen and gave Emily a long back rub as her neck was in pain,
i don't think that set well with Donal; although i am told that particular twitch
is nigh constant. I offered PJ Harvey's Dry disc to Mellisa since she hadn't
heard it but liked Polly Jean's other work. While She painted a landscape turned
seascape of the Glen, i asked Máire to "tell me about her despair, and i will
tell you about mine." This precipitated a long discussion of Noah and his infidelity,
his ego, and his grandstanding…not, all of which came from her. Guess i wasn't
the person to broach that question, considering my own interpretation of that
particular Scorpio...male cat pissing on the walls. At the end of the evening
i told her i would share my own despair with her, and then tried to discover some,
other than the sexual distance my frankness engenders in the opposite sex. Guess
i am just a contended lad, táim go h-on mhaith. Chatted with Kevin when
he came in about glassblowing, sculpting and art galleries. He seems to be quite
the artist, recently getting a commission for four blown vases to the tune of
around five grand. Told him about DOM in the Advocate's Close in Edinburgh and
the beautiful glass bowl there. Dé Sathairn 14April
After breakfast we headed out to the Famine Museum, two hours by bus. Began reading
The Gingerman by Dunleavy. Seems to have sex on the brain…just what i need.
When we arrived we were given a tour of the estate house. It was really hard to
reconcile coming to the Famine Museum and wandering the halls of an Ascendancy
family manor, knowing all the furniture, the very walls themselves, the Palladium
grandeur was created while the local population starved and were evicted. Destined
to die, if they were lucky on coffin ships headed for the 'green fields of Amerikay',
and if not in the workhouse or ditches to and from. The only room that felt comfortable
was the children's play room, but even it had some serious kinks to it…the one-horned
devil, the black cat atop the dollhouse, or the twisted psychobabble platitudes
that were everywhere. The heaviest irony was that we ended the tour in the kitchen
where the lady of the house dropped her "menu" down from above to the ten or twenty
indentured servants who labored in the biggest room in the manor. For many of
us it was just too much, Matt, Sorcha, and i were particularly angry about the
experience. And then to lunch before going to the Famine Museum in the stables...bitter
irony that.
Sorcha and i sat outside for as long as our hunger would allow us and discussed
the whole twisted nature of the experience. Not to mention the difficulties she
felt in seminar concerning our role in the Glen and the moral ambiguity to Liam's
and McDyer's effort to keep people in the Glen, not to mention the concerns she
raised in seminar about Ethnography. I appreciate her perspective and i am overly
happy about her being in Patrick's seminar. We finally went in and had the vegetarian
melt, i had green beans and a glass of French Chardonay, which i gladly offered
her some of. It was difficult to square how delicious the food was with what we
were there for…guess it would have been much worse if the food was terrible.
The Famine Museum itself was somewhat of a let down. Not that the house or the
displays didn't encourage emotional response and offer up information about the
Famine. It just seemed whitewashed (if it is even an appropriate phrase), like
Board Fáilte didn't want to torment people with the pain of the past. Or perhaps,
our educational experience was much more vital and encompassing than this. I whispered
Chaca ar la (sp.?) in Seán's ear in the room detailing the landlord's assassination.
It wasn't until the very end of the tour that we even learned from the guide Marie
Anne that there was a wealth of sustenance being harvested and shipped out of
the country for the benefit and profit of the Protestant Ascendancy. And then
there is the apologia of a great-grandson that calls the murdered landlord a "victim
of the times." Like Yeats' grave, it just made me want to spit.
I asked Marie Anne if there was an implicit irony of having the visitors of the
Famine Museum walk through the manor house and grounds and then end of the tour
in the kitchen? This was of course before the second tour, i don't think the question
would have been so polite at that point; response B be damned. I took photographs
of some stamps i will attempt to acquire at the Dublin Post Office, which detailed
images from the Famine entitled An Gorda Mór. I guess those are some of
the stamps i will get for Carlos in Government Docs. I went out to the grounds
afterwards and climbed into an ancient yew, which likely was there around 1100,
considering its deteriorated stem and ample trunks.
On the return trip sat next to Máire (Chrissy) and read more of The Gingerman,
still lacking the impetus or opportunity to discuss despair, although still unable
to define what that might be. When we got back it was a quick trip with Kai and
Chrissy to town. I went wandering around bookstores, finding a couple of books
of dual language poetry by Nuála ní D…, and i found a book i may have to call
and have sent home by Kathleen Raine entitled Yeats, the Initiate. I also
got the Kíla disc i was missing, Tog é Bog é. When i went back to the cybershop
where i had left Chrissy, she was still waiting, so i wandered off to get groceries
and alcohol. Glenlivet single malt scotch, i had acquired a taste for it in Scotland,
and a couple or three bottles of wine, Chilean Merlot, Romanian Pinot Noir, and
an Australian Sparkling Pinot Noir/Chardonay. When i returned Chrissy had gone,
but Eamon and Trina were there. Sent out a few e-mails to L.A.Y.L.A.H. and Warren.
Eamon, Trina, and I went to eat at a fabulous Bistro which as Eamon put it, made
you forget you were in Ireland for a moment. We split a bottle of Black Opal Merlot
and each had an oven fired gourmet pizza. Eamon afterwards went with a group headed
to the pubs, while Trina and i headed back to the hostel to get ready to go dancing.
Hung out with Jayne for a while chatting and then went over to the estrogen room
to sample the ice cream and baileys which was being served. Gleana, Siobhan, Kat,
and Jolene were there, and Jayne and Trina shortly joined us. When the two of
them were ready we headed out to Equinox where we met Matt, Erin, Jacqui, and
Megan. After dancing for some time in the trance room upstairs and getting overheated
we headed down to the ground floor where i sat and talked to a young man named
Clinton about Gaelic and Irish history. The obligatory question was raised and
he was mighty impressed with my animist answer. At the end of the evening he said
he was glad that i had some Gaelic on me and that i was an inspiration to himself
and his fellows.
And then there was the wait for coat check and the monkeying for a place in the
queue. There is a level of violence in the streets of Sligo at closing time that
is beyond reason, and one i do not readily wish to experience again. It is all
about turning on your city ears and eyes and ignoring all the noises about you,
walking with purpose towards your destination. For a while we thought we had lost
Jacqui and Matt, but all was well when we arrived at the hostel.