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North to South: A Pacific Northwest Travel Guide for Forest Activists

By Deane T Rimerman

 

Del Norte County:

"The redwood is the glory of the Coast Range. It extends along the western slope, in a nearly continuous belt about ten miles wide, from beyond the Oregon boundary to the south of Santa Cruz, a distance of nearly four hundred miles, and in massive, sustained grandeur and closeness of growth surpasses all the other timber woods of the world. Trees from ten to fifteen feet in diameter and three hundred feet high are not uncommon, and a few attain a height of three hundred and fifty feet, or even four hundred, with a diameter at the base of fifteen to twenty feet or more, while the ground beneath them is a garden of fresh, exuberant ferns, lilies, gaultheria, and rhododendron. This grand tree, Sequoia Sempervirens, is surpassed in size only by its near relative, Sequoia Gigantea, or big tree, of the Sierra Nevada, if indeed it is surpassed. The Sempervirens is certainly the taller of the two. The Gigantea attains a greater girth, and is heavier, more noble in port, and more sublimely beautiful. These two sequoias are all that are known to exist in the world, though in former geological times the genus was common and had many species. The redwood is restricted to the Coast Range, and the big tree to the Sierra." --John Muir, American Forests

 

The northernmost extreme of the coastal forests is up in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. Up here redwoods mix in with forest species from the north. Red Cedar, Western Hemlocks, Sitka Spruce, these trees that thrive further to the north signify the start of the great fir forests of the PNW, they mark the limits the last ice age put on the redwoods. This is where climate change confined the redwoods. Further north the coast redwood forests shift into coastal Spruce, one of the fastest growing trees. In this northernmost boundary the rain and winds are more fierce, the redwoods have more resprouts from broken branches and trunks. This is where the architecture of the redwood is in its most dizzying wildness. On top of all this architecture is a soggy Oregon coastal moss garden. Salal, Huckleberry, hemlocks, lichens, there are so many epiphytes in this arboreal ecosystem. On really big branches these soggy mats of moss and lichen get several feet thick and become aquatic habitat, which allows Salamanders to live up here!

 

To get to Jed Smith park you have the go north of Arcata, up past the Klamath river, past Redwood National Park Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park. This north coastal corner of California is so far from the State's centers of power that is has escaped much modernization. Up here the Smith River is the last major free-flowing (undamed) River in California. The recreational popularity of this region has been growing and growing. Last Spring Save the Redwoods League and the state finally closed a $60 million 25,000 acre purchase, the largest purchase ever for the League. It's a purchase that helps link up many of the isolated parks in to one continuous park.

 

Redwood National Park:

One reason the forest of Del Norte are far less exploited is because of the remote location and lack of a sizable deep water port. It meant log hauling and lumber distribution costs took a big bite out of the profit margin. It slowed the rate of cut in this region. This all changed when the federal government stepped in and created Redwood National Park. The first wave of protection came in this region in the early 20th century.  It wasn't until 1960's that the Federal government realized it had something to offer to left the Coastal Redwood Preservation movement.  Lengthy delay, after lengthy delay, land was finally bought by the federal government. It was a sweet heart deal that gave lumberman double the value of the land plus all the old Growth trees they could cut until the bill was signed into law and the land was transferred to the feds. As this process inched forward there was an epic massacre in the woods. Whole hillsides were felled just to get the trees dropped before the feds took possession of whatever was left standing.

 

Years later when the dedication ceremony in the Lady Bird johnson grove began, Dr. Robert Curry worked with others activists to let the media and see the aerial maps of the clear cutting. Curry and others  proved what a fraud the protection scheme was. Years later big storms and floods proved Curry's point. Just as occurred in Humboldt Redwoods, the Feds were forced to buy more forestland upstream to protect the biggest oldest trees along the downstream floodplain.

Redwood National Park is now 100,000 acres in size and most of it is cutover forest land that is being restored in the Federal Park Service’s biggest Restoration effort of the seventies and eighties.

 

Klamath River - Crescent City

Crescent City used to sustain a huge salmon fishery. The way of life in this town was the Salmon runs on the Klamath river. But farmers up in Oregon's have taken much of the Klamath’s water, depriving the Hoopa Reservation of their ancesrtal rights, as well as ending the fishing industry. Crescent City is a prison town now. The majority of the town's population is in Jail at Pelican Bay State Prison. The biggest employer in this area is, of course, the prison.

 

Activism in the Smith River

The seed of greater things to come is local environmentalists are rallying around issues of Smith River and Farm water runoff / pesticide issues. In time there's no doubt that the still wild and mostly protected Smith River will attract more interest and subsidy for its value as an ecologic refuge and research tool. A place where the rest of the world can learn what's it like to live light on the land.

 

Klamath-Siskiyou:

East of the Smith River watershed is the Klamath National Forest, an interior forest in Siskiyou County. It contains the Klamath River, the Salmon river as well as the Marbled Mountain Wilderness. This forest in the interior of the coast range is a mountainous land bridge that reaches east across the state of California. Moving clockwise to the east the mountains turn into the Sierra Nevada range. Moving counter counter-clockwise to the east the mountains turn into Cascade Range

This land bridge of mountains between the cost and interior is called the Klamath knot. It is a crossroad of flora and fauna   propagating and or traveling across the Northwest. Further north in Oregon, at western center of this knot is the Kalmiopsis Wilderness it’s where the PNW’s interior forest originated from after the glaciers receded 10,000 years ago.

 

The Klamath has always been one of the top timber producers on federal lands in California. These timber sales are mostly watched over by activists in Southern Oregon, as well as The Klamath Forest Alliance. One of the most well-known timber sales to be contested in this area were the Dillon creek timber sales, which were back in 1997. It resulted in outreach and direct-action in a rural areas that had not ever seen much of environmental protests. Public pressure helped to stop the worst parts of the sales but much of the harmful salvage logging of the fire burned forest still occurred.